The root of the name “clematis” originates from the ancient Greek word “klema,” meaning “climber” or more accurately, “vine branch.” They are a member of the ranunculaceae family and so are related to the ranunculus (obviously,) peonies, buttercups, and others of that ilk.
The flowers are deceptive. What looks like the flower isn’t the flower at all. What we see in glorious colour are the sepals, pretending to petals. The real petals are tiny and right in the centre of the flower.
As we walk along the Tarka Trail, or wander through Bideford’s nearby country lanes we easily recognise our native clematis, clematis vitalba, in the hedgerows. In summer, you will need to look closely to see the small delicate flowers, but in the autumn, you cannot miss the downy seedpods that smother the plant like a woolly blanket.
This autumnal show of fluffiness has given rise to many knick-names, the commonest being ‘Traveller’s joy’ and ‘Old man’s beard.’ In other parts of the country it is called by other delightful names such as, ‘Devil’s guts’ and ‘Gypsy’s bacci.’
The first literary mention of c. vitalba was in 1548 when William Turner (who has nothing to do with Bill Turner, a regular contributor to this esteemed journal) called it the “hedge vine” in his book “The Names of Herbs.”
Half a century later, in 1569, the first clematis was introduced from southern Europe, this being c. viticella. New introductions became a flood when c. integrifolia, c. cirrhosa, and c. flamula, arrived in 1596, closely followed by c. recta in 1597.
The Americans joined in by sending us c. crispa in 1726 and c. virona in 1730. The following year, in 1731, c. orientalis came from northern Asia. Later, in 1783, a different c. cirrhosa arrived on our shores, a variety called ‘balearica’ from the Balearic Islands. The final decade of the century saw the introduction of c. alpina from northeast Asia/central Europe in 1792.
The climbing capabilities of clematis are renowned. If you want to cover an ugly shed or outbuilding, there is none better than c. montana; you can take your pick of the cultivars. Another traditional use for the clematis is to climb trellis, fences, and walls and to run up trees and shrubs, although we will need to take into account the vigour of the clematis when choosing where to grow it. A c. montana will swamp a shrub that is only eight feet tall. Therefore, a little bit of forethought and planning can work wonders when working out the combination, cultivar, and colour of the mix.
Many of the less vigorous clematis will grow well in pots and containers. Look at the label when buying to see if they are suitable. In addition, it is worth a mention about the container itself. Clematis like a cool root run therefore keep to oak barrels, wooden containers, and stone or concrete pots; beware of terracotta and plastic which will get too hot.
Many people feel that pruning clematis is a science, but really, the way to prune is just a process of elimination. Ask a few questions. 1) Is it a large flowering cultivar or small flowered species/cultivar? 2) If large flowered is it early flowering? If it is, it flowers on old wood so belongs to pruning group two. 3) If late flowering, it will flower on new wood so belongs to pruning group three. 4) If it is a small flowered species/cultivar, is it early or late flowering? 5) If early flowering then it flowers on old wood, so therefore is pruning group one. 6) If late flowering, it flowers on old wood and belongs to pruning group three.
How the pruning groups work:
Pruning group 1) Prune after flowering only of it has become overgrown, and then only remove what is necessary to keep it in bounds. Cut back to the point of origin on the stem.
Pruning group 2) Prune in early spring before growth starts. Cut out dead, weak, and damaged stems. Prune old stems to a strong pair of buds. These will produce this season’s flowers.
Pruning group 3) Cut old stems back to a pair of strong growing buds, about 9-12 inches above the ground. As with group two, the new growth will support this season’s flowers.
Finally, I will close with a word on clematis pest and disease. The only significant pests are aphids and whiteflies. However, if left alone, hoverflies, lacewings and ladybirds will earn their keep. Everyone fears clematis wilt but this usually only affects the large flowered hybrids. The answer? Cut to the ground, feed, and wait until it grows again next year! Botrytis/grey moulds are the result of dampness and cold. Therefore, open up the area around the plant so the air can circulate and cut off the affected shoots. The worse thing that can ever happen to clematis is slime flux. A slimy yellow liquid oozes from the base of the plant. It is rare but there is no known cure. Dig it up and burn it; do not replant on the same site.